Care & Diet

Diet: Basically, birds are very hardy and easy to care for. Poor nutrition or inadequate diet are the most common causes of illness. Dietary deficiencies can lead to a wide range of diseases, from poor feathering to fatty liver disease. Seeds should never make up the bulk of a bird's diet. They are high in fat and low in nutritional value. Certain species, such as amazons, tend to be obese and may benefit from having seeds completely eliminated from their diets. On the other hand, it may not be prudent to totally cut seeds from the diets of macaws and conures which seem to have a higher need for fat. Nuts are a better source of fat and have higher nutritional value.
Some believe that pellets are a complete source for bird nutrition and can be fed to the exclusion of all other foods. While pellets make up a good portion of our birds' diets, we still believe in the benefits of feeding a variety of other healthy foods. In addition to pellets, we feed our birds fresh fruits and vegetables, cooked beans and rice, grains, nuts and seeds. A varied diet serves a dual purpose. Not only is the bird supplied with healthy foods to eat, it is also mentally stimulating and enjoyable. Birds are smart and do have a sense of taste so it's important to make sure that they are consuming a variety of foods and not just one or two favorite foods. Birdie mashes and breads or muffins with veggies baked in are a great way to get the finicky eater to consume a variety of healthy foods. For recipes, visit BirdsnWays - Parrots & Exotic Pet Birds - Recipe Xchange.

Feeding and Watering: Make sure your bird has access to food and clean, uncontaminated water daily. The water should be allowed to run for several minutes prior to filling the water dish in order to flush out any toxins that can accumulate in water that has been sitting in the pipes. Alternatively, bottled water can be used. Many birds will readily adapt to a water bottle which will remain free of contaminating food and poop. Whether using a bottle or bowl, it needs to be washed and refilled daily with fresh water. Fresh foods such as fruits and vegetables should be provided in clean bowls on a daily basis and removed after about two hours to avoid spoilage.

Hygiene: Practicing good hygiene is far more important in the prevention of disease than the use of disinfectants. The cage should be washed and dried in sunlight on a weekly basis and food and water bowls need to be scrubbed daily to prevent the build up slime and algae. The lining of the cage should also be changed daily as the accumulation of spoiled foods and droppings draws pests and promotes the growth of bacteria and fungi. Should a disinfectant become necessary, regular chlorine bleach is very efficient and will kill most anything. However, it is corrosive and will pit metal. So when disinfecting the cage, you may want to use the bleach that is recommended for outdoor use. It can be found at most home improvement stores and contains corrosion inhibitors. Make sure the area is well ventilated and free of birds. Mix 3/4 cup bleach to 1 gallon of water. Wash the article down with this solution and let it stand for 5 to 10 minutes. Rinse thoroughly and allow to dry in the sun.

Environment: It's important for pet birds to be placed outside on a regular basis for exposure to fresh air and sunlight. A bird that is outdoors needs to be protected from weather extremes and direct sunlight as well as predators, rodents and wild birds. Birds that must be maintained indoors with little or no access to natural light will need to be provided with some type of full spectrum lighting. Healthy birds can tolerate temperatures that are comfortable to humans. During very hot temperatures, a bird may show signs of overheating by panting and holding it's wings away from it's body. The feet may also feel very warm to the touch. Heat stroke can occur and misting the bird will quickly cool it down. In very cold temperatures, a bird will sit fluffed up on it's perch with it's wings held tight against it's body. It my perch on only one foot while keeping the other tucked up close to it's body for warmth. The feet will also feel cold to the touch. Place the bird in a heated room to warm it up. Never place a bird's cage or play stand near vents, ducts, or drafty windows or doors. Birds can become ill from prolonged exposure.

Aktivity: In the wild, most parrots spend their days foraging for food and participating in a variety of flock activities. They fly, climb, open fruits and nuts, and socialize with other members of their flock. Birds require more than a cage to fulfill their intrinsic need for social interaction and activity. They will thrive with attention and wither with neglect. A bird kept in it's cage without diversion may develop behavioral problems that include screaming or plucking. Your bird's cage should be located near family activity. Be sure to provide your bird with adequate social time outside of it's cage. While inside the cage, make sure your bird has a supply of toys that will keep it busy and entertained.

Selecting an Avian Vet: Birds are unique and the average cat or dog vet will not do. You should have an avian veterinarian lined up prior to acquiring your bird. The vet you choose needs to be qualified to treat birds and know how to handle them. He or she should have a good rapport with birds and not be afraid of them. Try to select a vet that only treats birds or at least a large number. Below are a couple of links that may aid you in locating an avian vet near you.
Birdsnways - Board Certified Avian Veterinarians (for the NJ Amwell Bird Hospital,Hillsborough see link http://www.amwellbirdhospital.com/, thank you Heather!)

The Cage

Whenever possible, try to purchase the largest cage suitable to the species that you can both afford and accommodate. Minimally, the cage should allow for the bird to spread it's wings without touching the sides of the enclosure.

Lining the Cage

There are a variety of materials that can be used to line the cage, including corn cob, crushed walnut shells, and wood chips or shavings. We feel the best cage liner is plain old newspaper, paper bags or paper towels. They might not be the most aesthetically pleasing substrates, but they are cheap, functional, and easy to clean. They also do not promote the growth of bacteria and fungi the way that many of the other substrates do.
Cedar, redwood, and pressure treated shavings or chips should not be used as they are toxic.
A grate with adequate distance between the cage and lining pan is a must in order to prevent the bird from having access to droppings, substrate, and discarded food. Many substrates, especially walnut shells and corn cob litter can be harmful if ingested.

J.J. message to soon to be proud parrot owners:

  ....have you ever spend couple days in a cage? I have…I actually spend whole week at home of Mrs. and Mr. Smith (our Blue and Gold Macaw pair) to find out how they live. (I will never do that again, they are kind of strange, next time I plan to visit Mr. Bunda´s family, I hope there will be more fun J).

All of my weaned friends have trust in me, they opened their hearts to me as I did too and I would like to share my experiences with you – our parrots soon to be best friend.

Please remember:

Your parrot friend assure just one right – if you treat him right, he will reward you with unwavering love, humor, beauty and sense of wonder. When you took him home, you become his best friend, his entire universe for live…